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Determinate vs. Indeterminate Vegetables: What’s the Difference (and Which Should You Grow)?

Determinate vs. Indeterminate Vegetables: What’s the Difference (and Which Should You Grow)?

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If you’ve ever shopped for vegetable plants or seed packets—especially tomatoes—you’ve probably seen the words determinate and indeterminate. These terms describe a plant’s growth habit (how it grows and how it produces fruit). Knowing the difference makes it much easier to pick the right varieties for your garden space and the way you like to harvest.

Quick Answer: Determinate vs. Indeterminate

  • Determinate plants grow to a set size, produce most fruit in a shorter window, then slow down.
  • Indeterminate plants keep growing and producing fruit all season until frost.

This matters most for tomatoes, but you may see it occasionally on other crops.

What Does “Determinate” Mean?

Determinate vegetables grow to a specific, predetermined size. They set most of their fruit over a fairly short period and then stop putting on lots of new growth.

Benefits of determinate varieties

  • More compact, bush-like plants
  • Fruit ripens around the same time
  • Usually less staking and pruning
  • Harvest tends to be all at once (or over a short period)

Best for

  • Canning, sauces, salsa, and freezing
  • Containers, raised beds, and smaller gardens
  • Gardeners who want a big harvest in one go

What Does “Indeterminate” Mean?

Indeterminate vegetables continue to grow, flower, and produce fruit throughout the growing season until frost ends the show.

Benefits of indeterminate varieties

  • Tall, vine-like growth
  • Fruit production is continuous
  • Harvest happens gradually for months
  • Great for gardeners who want fresh tomatoes all summer

Support needs

Indeterminate tomatoes often reach 6–10 feet and usually need strong cages, staking, or a trellis.

Which Vegetables Are Determinate or Indeterminate?

You’ll see these terms most often with tomatoes.

Determinate tomato examples

  • Roma and many paste tomatoes
  • Many patio/container varieties
  • Bush-style slicers

Indeterminate tomato examples

  • Many heirloom varieties
  • Large slicing tomatoes
  • Many cherry and grape tomatoes

Tip: The plant tag or seed packet usually lists the growth habit.

Which Should You Grow? (How to Choose)

Both types can be great—it depends on your goals.

Choose determinate tomatoes if you want

  • A compact plant for containers or tight spaces
  • Less staking and pruning
  • A large harvest at one time for canning or sauces
  • Plants that stay neater and more manageable

Choose indeterminate tomatoes if you want

  • A steady supply of tomatoes all season
  • Fresh slicing, salads, and cooking all summer
  • More variety options (many heirlooms are indeterminate)
  • Plants that keep producing until frost

Many gardeners plant both: determinates for early bulk harvests, and indeterminates for ongoing fresh tomatoes.

When to Start Tomato Seeds (Greensboro, NC)

Tomatoes do best when started indoors before planting outside.

In the Greensboro area, start tomato seeds 6–8 weeks before the last expected frost. That typically means:

  • Start seeds indoors: Late February through mid-March
  • Use bright light or grow lights
  • Keep soil warm and evenly moist

When to Plant Tomatoes Outside (Greensboro, NC)

Tomatoes are cold-sensitive. Wait until:

  • All danger of frost has passed, and
  • Nighttime temperatures are consistently above ~50°F

For Greensboro, that’s usually mid-April to early May.

Before you plant

  • Harden plants off over 7–10 days
  • Choose full sun (6–8+ hours)
  • Plant in rich, well-draining soil
  • Add compost and mulch to support healthy growth

A Simple Strategy for Tomato Success

Want the best of both worlds? Plant a mix:

  • Determinate tomatoes for early, concentrated harvests (perfect for preserving)
  • Indeterminate tomatoes for steady production all summer

With a little planning, you can enjoy tomatoes from early summer right up to the first fall frost.

Need Help Choosing Tomato Varieties?

If you’re planning your vegetable garden and aren’t sure which tomato types are right for your space, stop by Guilford Garden Center. We’re always happy to help you pick varieties that will thrive in your garden and give you a productive season.

Now Is the Time to Check for Bagworms in Your Landscape (Early Spring Guide)

Now Is the Time to Check for Bagworms in Your Landscape (Early Spring Guide)

As the weather warms and plants begin actively growing, it’s a great time to inspect your trees and shrubs—especially evergreens. Early spring is one of the best times to spot bagworms before they hatch and become a bigger problem later in the season.

Bagworms can cause serious damage to landscape plants if left untreated, but catching them early makes control much easier.

Quick Take: Why Check for Bagworms Now?

  • Last year’s bags can still be attached to branches and may contain hundreds of overwintering eggs.
  • Removing bags now can prevent a major infestation later.
  • If you need to spray, treatments work best when caterpillars are small (late spring into early summer).

What Are Bagworms?

Bagworms are caterpillars that live inside small protective cases (“bags”) made from silk and bits of plant material. These bags look like tiny hanging cones attached to branches.

The insect most commonly affecting landscapes in our region is the evergreen bagworm (Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis). While they’re often associated with evergreens, bagworms can feed on a wide range of plants.

Common bagworm host plants (evergreens)

  • Arborvitae
  • Juniper
  • Cedar
  • Spruce
  • Pine
  • Leyland cypress

Bagworms can also feed on some deciduous plants

  • Maple
  • Oak
  • Sycamore
  • Rose
  • Flowering plum

Bagworm Life Cycle (and Why Timing Matters)

Understanding the bagworm life cycle explains why early detection is so important.

Overwintering stage

Bagworms spend the winter as eggs inside bags that remain attached to branches from the previous year. Each bag can contain hundreds of eggs.

Spring hatch

In late spring, tiny caterpillars hatch and begin feeding on nearby foliage. As they grow, they create and carry the distinctive bag.

Summer feeding

Throughout summer, bagworms continue feeding and enlarging their bags. This is when the most visible damage occurs.

Late summer and fall

By late summer, caterpillars mature. Male moths emerge and fertilize females, which remain inside their bags. Females lay eggs inside the bag and die—leaving the next generation protected for winter.

How Bagworms Damage Plants

Bagworms chew foliage. On evergreens, this can be especially damaging because evergreens don’t replace lost needles quickly.

Signs of bagworm damage

  • Brown or thinning areas on evergreens
  • Defoliated branch tips
  • Overall plant decline

Heavy infestations can severely damage—or even kill—arborvitae and other evergreens if left untreated.

Deciduous trees can often recover from some feeding, but damage can still weaken plants and reduce curb appeal.

What to Look For Right Now (Early Spring)

Early detection is the easiest way to prevent bigger problems later.

Look for:

  • Small bag-like structures hanging from branches
  • Bags made of dried needles, leaves, or twigs
  • Bags that resemble tiny pinecones or stuck-on debris

Last year’s bags can blend in, especially on arborvitae and juniper. These are the bags most likely to contain overwintering eggs.

How to Get Rid of Bagworms

The best bagworm control method depends on the time of year and how many you find.

1) Hand removal (best right now)

Early spring is a great time to remove bagworms by hand.

Steps:

  1. Pick the bags off branches
  2. Place them in a sealed bag or drop them into soapy water
  3. Dispose of them in the trash

Removing bags before eggs hatch can prevent hundreds of caterpillars from emerging.

2) Insecticide treatment (after hatch)

Once eggs hatch and caterpillars begin feeding, insecticide control is most effective while caterpillars are small and actively feeding.

Eight® Insect Control is highly effective against bagworms when applied at the right time.

  • Spray thoroughly on affected plants
  • Follow label directions for coverage and safety
  • Treat in late spring and early summer for best results

Early Attention Makes a Big Difference

Bagworms are much easier to manage when caught early. Taking a few minutes to inspect your landscape now—and treating at the right time—can protect your evergreens and prevent serious damage later in the season.

Need Help Identifying Bagworms?

If you’re unsure whether you’re seeing bagworms or have questions about treatment, bring a sample or photo to Guilford Garden Center. We’re happy to help you identify the problem and recommend the best next step to keep your landscape healthy.

Spring’s Temperature Roller Coaster: How to Protect Your Garden in Greensboro

Spring’s Temperature Roller Coaster: How to Protect Your Garden in Greensboro

If you’ve gardened in the Triad for any length of time, you know spring weather can be unpredictable. One week we’re enjoying warm sunshine and plants are waking up quickly—then suddenly a cold snap shows up in the forecast.

These spring temperature swings in Greensboro are common, and they can leave gardeners wondering how to protect plants that have already started growing. The good news: with a few simple steps, you can help your garden ride out late cold nights and keep growing strong.

Quick Checklist: How to Protect Plants From a Spring Cold Snap

When the forecast calls for near-freezing temps:

  • Cover tender plants with frost cloth (row cover) before sunset
  • Move containers to a sheltered spot (porch, garage wall, near the house)
  • Water earlier in the day if soil is dry (moist soil holds heat better)
  • Add a light layer of mulch to buffer soil temperature
  • Remove covers the next morning once temperatures rise

Why Spring Temperature Swings Matter

When temperatures warm up, plants respond by pushing new growth. Tender shoots, emerging bulbs, and fresh foliage are exciting signs of spring—but they’re also the most vulnerable to late cold nights.

Even a light frost can damage new growth, especially when plants have already begun actively growing. Watching the forecast and preparing ahead of time can make all the difference.

Container Gardens: Protect Potted Plants From Cold Nights

Container plantings warm up faster than in-ground beds, which means they also react quickly to temperature changes—and they cool down quickly, too.

If a chilly night is predicted:

  • Move containers close to the house, garage, or under a covered porch for added warmth
  • Group containers together to help them retain heat
  • Cover containers with frost cloth if moving them isn’t possible
  • Water earlier in the day if the soil is very dry

Tip: Containers left in open areas (especially on decks or patios) will cool down faster than plants in the ground.

Garden Beds and Perennials: Frost Protection for Emerging Growth

Plants in garden beds have a bit more insulation from surrounding soil, but newly emerging growth can still be damaged by frost.

To help protect your beds:

  • Apply a light layer of mulch around plants to help regulate soil temperatures
  • Cover tender perennials or early vegetables when frost is expected
  • Remove covers the next morning once temperatures rise above freezing so plants get light and airflow

Sprouted Spring Bulbs: What to Do Before a Freeze

Bulbs such as daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, and alliums often begin growing early. The good news is that many spring bulbs are fairly cold tolerant.

However, when buds or flowers are developing, freezing temperatures can damage blooms.

If a cold night is predicted:

  • Cover flowering bulbs with frost cloth
  • If plants are already blooming, a temporary cover can help preserve the flowers

Bulb foliage usually tolerates light frost well—the biggest concern is protecting the blooms.

Shrubs That Are Leafing Out: Hydrangeas, Azaleas, Roses, and More

Many shrubs—such as hydrangeas, azaleas, spireas, and roses—begin pushing fresh leaves as temperatures warm. That tender new growth is especially sensitive to freezing temperatures.

If your shrubs are flushing out:

  • Cover them with frost cloth when temperatures are expected to drop below freezing
  • Make sure the cloth reaches all the way to the ground to trap warmth rising from the soil
  • Avoid using plastic directly on plants (it can trap moisture and cause damage)

Even if a frost damages new growth, most established shrubs will recover by producing new leaves later in the season.

Newly Planted Trees, Shrubs, and Perennials: Extra Protection Matters

Newly planted material is especially vulnerable because roots haven’t fully established yet.

To protect new plantings:

  • Water well during the day before a cold night
  • Add a light mulch layer around the root zone
  • Cover plants with frost cloth to buffer against sudden temperature drops

Protection during the first few weeks after planting can significantly reduce stress.

How to Use Frost Cloth (Row Cover) Correctly

Frost cloth (also called frost fabric or row cover) is one of the most effective tools for protecting plants during cold snaps.

Best practices:

  • Drape the cloth loosely so it doesn’t crush tender growth
  • Anchor the edges with rocks, bricks, or landscape pins
  • Make sure the cover reaches the ground to trap warm air from the soil
  • Remove the cloth once temperatures warm up the next day

Unlike plastic, frost cloth is breathable and allows light and moisture to pass through while still protecting plants from frost.

A Little Preparation Goes a Long Way

Spring weather in Greensboro can change quickly, but a little preparation goes a long way. Keeping frost cloth on hand, watching the forecast, and protecting tender growth on cold nights will help your garden thrive as the season settles into warmer temperatures.

Need Frost Cloth or Plant-Specific Advice?

If you have questions about protecting specific plants—or you need frost cloth for your garden—stop by Guilford Garden Center. We’re always happy to help you get the most out of your spring garden.

Understanding the Different Types of Hydrangeas (and the Native Options to Know)

Understanding the Different Types of Hydrangeas (and the Native Options to Know)

Hydrangeas are a favorite in Greensboro-area landscapes thanks to their big blooms, lush foliage, and long season of color. But not all hydrangeas grow the same way—sun needs, soil preferences, and (most importantly) pruning timing depend on the type. Identify what you have first, then you’ll know exactly how to care for it.

Quick ID + Care Cheat Sheet

 

Type

Botanical nameNative?SunBlooms on

When to prune

PanicleHydrangea paniculataNo (Asia)Full sun–part sunNew woodLate winter/early spring
Bigleaf (mophead/lacecap)Hydrangea macrophyllaNo (Japan)Morning sun + afternoon shadeMostly old wood (some rebloomers)Right after bloom (lightly)
SmoothHydrangea arborescensYes (North America)Part sun–part shadeNew woodLate winter/early spring
OakleafHydrangea quercifoliaYes (Southeast US)Part shadeOld woodRight after bloom (minimal)

Panicle Hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata)

Panicle hydrangeas are among the easiest and most reliable hydrangeas to grow. They produce large cone-shaped blooms that often start white and may blush pink as the season progresses. In our region, they typically perform best in full sun to part sun.

Pruning tip: Panicle hydrangeas bloom on new wood (this season’s growth). Prune in late winter or very early spring before new growth starts to control size and encourage strong flowering.

Popular landscape picks: ‘Limelight’, ‘Little Lime’, ‘Pinky Winky’, ‘Bobo’.

Bigleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla)

Bigleaf hydrangeas are the classic “mophead” or “lacecap” types with blue, pink, or purple blooms. They prefer morning sun with afternoon shade plus consistently moist, well-drained soil.

Pruning tip: Many traditional varieties bloom on old wood (buds formed the previous year). If you need to shape, prune lightly right after flowering. Avoid heavy pruning in fall, winter, or early spring or you may remove next year’s blooms.

Local note: Some newer “reblooming” types (often sold as “Endless Summer”-style) can flower on both old and new wood, but they still do best with minimal pruning.

Smooth Hydrangeas — a Native Favorite (Hydrangea arborescens)

Smooth hydrangeas are native to North America and are known for large, rounded blooms (including the famous ‘Annabelle’-type selections). They do well in part sun to part shade and appreciate evenly moist soil.

Pruning tip: Smooth hydrangeas bloom on new wood, making them very forgiving. Many gardeners cut them back in late winter or early spring (often to 12–18 inches) to encourage sturdy stems and full summer flowering.

Native-forward alternatives to know: If you want a more natural look than the big “snowball” blooms, ask about straight species Hydrangea arborescens or more pollinator-friendly lacecap-style selections when available.

Oakleaf Hydrangeas — Native + Four-Season Interest (Hydrangea quercifolia)

Oakleaf hydrangeas are native to the Southeast and bring more than flowers: oak-shaped leaves, great texture, and standout fall color. They thrive in part shade, especially with protection from hot afternoon sun.

Pruning tip: Oakleaf hydrangeas bloom on old wood, so pruning should be minimal and done right after flowering if needed. Most years, they only need dead/damaged wood removed.

Why native gardeners love them: Oakleaf hydrangeas support local ecosystems and look right at home in woodland-style and native plantings.

Native Hydrangeas You May Be Missing (Great for the Carolinas)

If you’re trying to lean more native in your landscape, these hydrangeas are worth knowing about:

  • Mountain hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata): Not native (East Asia), but often more cold-hardy and lacecap-heavy than bigleaf types.
  • Climbing hydrangea — native option (Hydrangea barbara / Decumaria barbara): Commonly called climbing hydrangea, this is a native Southeastern vine with fragrant white summer blooms. It’s different from the more commonly sold (non-native) climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris).

Tip: If you’re shopping specifically for native plants, always check the botanical name—common names can be misleading.

The Bottom Line

Once you know your hydrangea type, the care gets simple—especially pruning. For a more eco-friendly, Carolina-appropriate landscape, consider adding smooth hydrangea and oakleaf hydrangea to your mix (and ask about the native climbing hydrangea if you want a flowering vine).

Want help choosing the right hydrangea for your yard? Bring a photo of the plant (and a picture of the leaves) to Guilford Garden Center, and we’ll help you ID it and match it to the right sun and soil conditions!

Early Signs of Spring: Plants That Bring the First Color to the Garden

Early Signs of Spring: Plants That Bring the First Color to the Garden

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After a long winter, early spring flowers are one of the most exciting signs that the garden is waking up. Many plants bloom before trees fully leaf out, so their color really stands out in the landscape. By planting a mix of early-blooming shrubs, flowering trees, perennials, groundcovers, and spring bulbs, you can enjoy weeks of fresh color—often starting in late winter and continuing into early spring.

Early-blooming shrubs that signal spring

If you’re looking for fast, noticeable color, these early spring shrubs are some of the first to put on a show:
– Forsythia: Famous for its bright yellow blooms that often appear on bare branches before the leaves emerge.
– Camellia japonica (for shade): A classic evergreen with glossy leaves and rose-like flowers in red, pink, or white.
– Pieris japonica: An evergreen shrub with clusters of delicate, bell-shaped blooms that add early-season interest.

Flowering trees that bring the first big spring color

Nothing says spring like flowering trees in bloom. These are standout choices for early spring landscape color:

– Magnolia: Large, elegant blooms in white, pink, or purple create a dramatic seasonal display.
– Cherry trees: Known for soft clouds of pink or white blossoms that brighten neighborhoods and gardens.
– Redbud: Vibrant pinkish-purple flowers line the branches before leaves appear, making it a favorite for early spring impact.

Early spring perennials and groundcovers for color at eye level

To keep color going closer to the ground, add early perennials and groundcovers that bloom as temperatures begin to rise:

– Helleborus (Lenten Rose)**: One of the earliest perennials, often blooming in late winter into early spring with nodding flowers in white, pink, burgundy, and green.
– Creeping phlox: Spreads into colorful mats of pink, purple, blue, or white—great for slopes, borders, and walls.
– Candytuft: Crisp white blooms and evergreen foliage make it a strong early-season groundcover.

Spring bulbs that add instant cheer

No list of early spring bloomers is complete without bulbs. These are easy to plant and deliver reliable color year after year:

– Daffodils: Bright, cheerful blooms that naturalize well in many gardens.
– Tulips: Bold spring color in beds, borders, and containers.

Create an early spring garden with weeks of color!

The best early spring gardens combine layers—flowering trees for height, shrubs for structure, perennials and groundcovers for texture, and bulbs for pops of color. With the right mix, your landscape can start blooming before spring fully arrives, making those first warm days even more rewarding.
Bold, Beautiful Dahlias for Greensboro Gardens

Bold, Beautiful Dahlias for Greensboro Gardens

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Dahlias are some of the most rewarding flowers you can grow in Greensboro. With bold color, tons of shapes, and a long bloom season, they thrive in our warm summers and can flower from early summer until the first frost. 

When to plant dahlias in Greensboro 

Plant dahlias late April through early May, once frost risk has passed and soil temps are around 60°F. Planting too early in cold, wet soil can cause tubers to rot. 

Sun + soil: the two biggest keys 

  • Sun: Aim for 6–8 hours of full sun daily.
  • Soil: Dahlias want rich, well-drained soil. In Greensboro, improving clay soil is especially important.  

To boost drainage and root growth, amend with compost and mix in Daddy Pete’s Planting Mix before planting. 

How to plant dahlia tubers 

  • Plant 4–6 inches deep
  • Lay tubers horizontally
  • Face the eye (growing point) upward

Where to grow: in-ground, raised beds, or containers

Dahlias do well in several setups—as long as drainage is excellent:

  • Raised beds: Warm up faster and drain well (a favorite for dahlias). •Containers: Perfect for patios and small spaces.
  • In-ground: Great with amended soil and proper spacing.  

Spacing + pot size 

  • Spacing: 12–18 inches for smaller varieties; up to 36 inches for larger types. •Containers: 12–14 inch pots for compact varieties; 18+ inches for larger dahlias.

Watering, feeding, and staking 

  • Water: Deeply 1–2x per week, letting soil dry slightly between waterings. •Fertilizer: Start with Bio-Tone at planting, then switch to Jack’s Bloom Booster as plants grow to encourage more flowers (not just leaves).
  • Stake early: Taller varieties should be staked at planting time to support heavy blooms and prevent wind damage.

Dahlias as cut flowers (best harvest tips) 

For the longest vase life: 

  • Cut in the early morning
  • Choose blooms that are fully open (dahlias don’t open much after cutting) •Place stems in cool water immediately
  • Strip lower leaves to keep vase water cleaner 

With fresh water every couple of days, dahlias can last nearly a week indoors.

So many styles to choose from!

Dahlias come in a huge range of forms—decorative, cactus, ball, pompon, anemone, and waterlily—plus everything from petite blooms to dramatic “dinner plate” flowers. 

Bring on the summer color 

With the right timing, improved soil, and steady care, dahlias can be a standout in any Greensboro garden—whether you’re filling beds, dressing up containers, or cutting armfuls of blooms for the kitchen table. 

Need help choosing varieties or planting supplies? Stop by Guilford Garden Center—we’ll help you set your dahlias up for success.

Starting Seeds Indoors for a Stunning Cut Flower Garden

Starting Seeds Indoors for a Stunning Cut Flower Garden

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Starting seeds indoors is one of the best ways to get a jumpstart on a vibrant cut flower garden. By beginning select varieties early, you’ll enjoy stronger plants, earlier blooms, and plenty of flowers ready for cutting as soon as the season begins. Many “cut-and-come-again” flowers respond especially well to indoor seed starting, giving you weeks of continuous harvest and fuller garden beds once transplanted outdoors. 

Why start cut flowers indoors? 

Indoor seed starting helps you: 

  • Get earlier blooms (and earlier bouquets)
  • Grow sturdier plants with stronger root systems
  • Fill beds faster once it’s time to transplant
  • Extend your harvest window for continuous cutting

Best cut flower seeds to start indoors 

Not every flower needs a head start, but these bouquet favorites often perform beautifully when started inside: 

  • Snapdragons: Ideal for early sowing; tall spikes add structure and height to

arrangements.  

  • Zinnias: Fast-growing, colorful, and incredibly productive for cutting. •Cosmos: Airy, delicate stems that add movement and softness to bouquets. •Strawflower: Long-lasting blooms that hold color well, fresh or dried.  •Calendula: Cheerful, sunny flowers that are easy to grow and great for cutting.  

What you’ll need for success 

A few simple supplies make a big difference: 

  • Seed-starting medium: Use a high-quality mix like Black Gold Seed Starting Mix for

excellent drainage and consistent moisture.  

  • Clean containers with drainage: Cell packs, trays, or small pots work great. •Bright light: A sunny window can work, but grow lights help prevent leggy seedlings. •Gentle watering: Keep soil evenly moist, never waterlogged.  

Step-by-step: starting seeds indoors 

  1. Fill containers with seed-starting mix and lightly moisten.
  2. Sow seeds according to packet depth recommendations.
  3. Provide warmth and light as soon as seeds sprout.
  4. Water consistently to keep moisture even.
  5. Feed lightly once seedlings have their first set of true leaves.
  6. Harden off before planting out by gradually introducing seedlings to outdoor conditions over about a week.  

Ready for a season of bouquets?

Starting a thoughtful selection of cut flowers indoors sets the stage for a season full of fresh bouquets. With a little planning and care, you’ll be harvesting stems straight from your garden for arrangements that bring color and joy indoors all summer long. 

Want help choosing varieties or supplies? Stop by Guilford Garden Center, and we’ll help you pick the best seeds, soil, and setup for your space.

Growing Potatoes in Buckets & Grow Bags

Growing Potatoes in Buckets & Grow Bags

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In Greensboro, spring gardening season arrives with cool mornings and warming soil — the perfect conditions for growing potatoes. If you’ve never tried growing them in a bucket or grow bag, you might be surprised at how simple and productive container potatoes can be. Whether you have a large backyard or just a sunny patio, potatoes are one of the easiest crops to grow at home. 

When we talk about growing potatoes “from seed,” we’re actually referring to seed potatoes — not true seeds. A seed potato is simply a potato that has been specifically grown for planting. Unlike grocery store potatoes, seed potatoes are certified disease-free and have not been treated with chemicals to prevent sprouting. Grocery store potatoes are often sprayed with sprout inhibitors and can sometimes carry diseases that persist in soil. While a store-bought potato may sprout in your pantry, planting certified seed potatoes gives you stronger, more reliable plants and a better harvest. 

If you look closely at a potato, you’ll notice small dimples or buds scattered across the surface. These are called “eyes.” Each eye is a growth point capable of producing a new plant. Small seed potatoes can be planted whole, but larger ones can be cut into pieces — as long as each piece contains at least one or two eyes. After cutting, allow the pieces to dry for a day or two before planting. This helps the cut surface form a protective layer and reduces the risk of rot once in the soil. 

Container size plays an important role in your success. Potatoes need room to form tubers underground. In a standard 5-gallon bucket, plant one to two seed potatoes. In a larger 10- to 15-gallon grow bag, two to three plants are ideal. Plan for about 8 to 12 inches of space per plant. Always make sure your container has good drainage holes, as potatoes do not like soggy soil. 

To plant, begin by adding 4 to 6 inches of high-quality potting mix to the bottom of the container. Place your seed potatoes on top of the soil and cover them with another 3 to 4 inches of mix. As the plants grow and reach about 6 to 8 inches tall, add more soil around the stems, leaving the top leaves exposed. This process, called “hilling,” encourages more potatoes to develop along the buried stem. Continue hilling until the container is full. 

Timing matters in our region. In Greensboro, potatoes are a cool-season crop. The best time to plant is typically late February through early April, once soil temperatures reach around 45 to 50 degrees. Potatoes can tolerate a light frost, but young plants should be protected if a hard freeze is predicted. Planting early allows potatoes to mature before the intense heat of summer arrives. 

Most potato varieties take between 70 and 100 days to reach full maturity. However, you can harvest “new potatoes” earlier — usually about 60 to 70 days after planting, or a couple of weeks after the plants flower. If you want full-size storage potatoes, wait until the vines yellow and begin to die back naturally.

Consistent watering is key to a good harvest. Keep the soil evenly moist but not saturated. Containers dry out more quickly than in-ground beds, especially during windy spring days, so check moisture regularly. The most important time to maintain steady watering is when the plants are flowering, as this is when tubers are actively forming beneath the soil. Once the foliage begins to yellow, reduce watering and allow the soil to dry down before harvest. 

When harvest time arrives, one of the joys of container growing is how easy it is. For new potatoes, gently dig around in the soil and remove a few small tubers while allowing the plant to continue growing. For mature potatoes, simply dump the bucket or grow bag and gather your crop. After harvesting, allow potatoes to cure in a cool, dark place for one to two weeks before storing them long term. 

Growing potatoes in buckets or grow bags is especially helpful in areas with heavier clay soils, and it allows gardeners with limited space to enjoy a productive crop. With the right timing, proper spacing, and consistent care, you can enjoy a satisfying harvest right from your patio or backyard. 

There’s something incredibly rewarding about tipping over a container and discovering what has been growing out of sight. If you’re ready to plant this season, now is the perfect time to get started.

How to Protect Trees & Shrubs with a Systemic Soil Drench

How to Protect Trees & Shrubs with a Systemic Soil Drench

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If you want healthier trees and shrubs with less insect damage this season, applying a systemic soil drench is one of the easiest and most effective preventative steps you can take. Bonide’s Annual Tree and Shrub Insect Control is designed to protect ornamental trees and shrubs from the inside out with just one application per year. 

How a Systemic Drench Works 

Unlike sprays that sit on the leaf surface, a soil drench is applied around the base of the plant and absorbed through the roots. Once taken up, the active ingredient moves throughout the plant’s vascular system, protecting leaves, stems, and new growth. Because the protection is internal, it won’t wash off in the rain and it reaches pests that are often hard to control with contact sprays. 

After application, smaller trees and shrubs typically take 2–4 weeks to fully absorb and distribute the product. Larger or more established trees may take 4–8 weeks, depending on their size and environmental conditions. Applying early in the season ensures the plant is protected before insect populations build. 

What Pests Does It Protect Against? 

Bonide’s Annual Tree and Shrub Insect Control helps protect against many common ornamental pests, including: 

  • Aphids 
  • Lace bugs 
  • Spider mites 
  • Whiteflies 
  • Leafminers 
  • Scale insects 
  • Japanese beetles 
  • Emerald ash borer (on labeled trees) 

These insects feed on plant sap or foliage, causing yellowing, stippling, curling leaves, thinning canopies, and overall stress. By stopping insects as they begin feeding, a systemic drench reduces visible damage and supports stronger, healthier growth throughout the season.

One Application for Season-Long Protection 

One of the biggest advantages of this product is convenience. It’s formulated as a once-per-year application for most ornamental trees and shrubs. After the plant absorbs the treatment, it continues circulating internally, providing long-lasting protection without the need for repeated sprays. 

Why Now Is the Ideal Time 

Early spring is the perfect time to apply a soil drench. As plants come out of dormancy, they actively move water and nutrients from the roots to new growth — which helps distribute the systemic product efficiently. Treating now ensures protection is in place before peak pest pressure arrives in late spring and summer. 

Preventative care is far easier than trying to correct heavy insect damage later. Making an annual soil drench part of your landscape routine helps maintain healthier foliage, stronger growth, and more resilient trees and shrubs all season long. 

If you have questions about which trees and shrubs should be treated, we’re happy to help you determine the best plan for your landscape.

Lawn Care Solutions: What to Do Now (Checklist) + Product Picks

Lawn Care Solutions: What to Do Now (Checklist) + Product Picks

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A great lawn starts with smart timing. Late winter into early spring is when you can get ahead of crabgrass, tackle broadleaf weeds early, and set your turf up for thicker growth and better color.

What to do now: Quick lawn checklist

Use this checklist to prevent weeds before they take over, support healthy soil, and feed consistently.

  1. Prevent crabgrass before it starts (pre-emergent).
    Apply a pre-emergent in early spring before crabgrass germinates. A second application in late fall can help reduce winter annual weeds and set you up for next season.

    • Pro tip: Apply after rain or water it in per label directions—moisture helps activate many pre-emergents.
    • Timing cue: When soil temps approach the low-to-mid 50s°F for several days, crabgrass is getting close.
  2. Knock out broadleaf weeds as they show up.
    Spot-treat or broadcast as needed for dandelions, clover, chickweed, and other broadleaf weeds.

    • Treat on a mild day when weeds are actively growing.
    • Avoid mowing 1–2 days before/after application (check label) so the product can absorb well.
  3. Support healthy soil (check pH).
    If soil pH is off, grass can’t use nutrients effectively—even if you fertilize.

    • If pH is low (too acidic): lime can help correct it.
    • Best practice is a soil test, but if you’re seeing pale color and slow response to feeding, pH may be part of the issue.
  4. Feed for steady, deep green growth.
    Choose a lawn food that supports long-term turf health and won’t burn.

    • Consistent feeding helps turf thicken, which naturally crowds out weeds.
    • Slow-release nutrition supports steady growth instead of a quick surge.

Product picks (grab what matches your lawn)

ProCare® Crabgrass & Weed Preventer — 20 lb (Pre-Emergent)

A strong early-season step to stop crabgrass before it starts. – Provides up to 6 months of crabgrass control – Stops crabgrass before it starts – Prevents up to 40 weeds and grasses – Apply in early spring and late fall

ProCare® Lawn Weed Control — 28 lb

For broadleaf weeds like dandelion and clover—without harming your turf when used as directed. – Kills dandelions, clovers, and other major lawn weeds – Kills 250+ weeds – Controls a wide spectrum of broadleaf weeds – Kills the weeds, not the lawn

Espoma Turf-tone™ All Season Lawn Food

A gentle, soil-friendly lawn food for deep green color and steady feeding. – Long-lasting nitrogen for deep green color – Enhanced with Bio-tone® beneficial microbes – Non-staining iron for deep green color – Won’t burn lawns or leach out of soil – 100% natural & organic approved – Safe for people, pets & planet

Espoma Lightning Lime — 30 lb

Fast-acting lime to help adjust soil pH for better nutrient uptake and improved lawn color. – 5X the coverage of regular pelletized limestone – Adjusts pH fast (6–8 weeks) – Low dust formula – Approved for organic gardening – One 30 lb bag covers up to 5,000 sq. ft.

Common lawn-care mistakes to avoid right now

  • Applying pre-emergent too late: crabgrass prevention works before you see crabgrass.
  • Skipping watering-in: many granular products need water to activate.
  • Over-fertilizing early: more isn’t better—choose steady feeding to avoid stress.
  • Treating weeds during cold snaps: herbicides work best when weeds are actively growing.

Need help choosing the right next step?

  • Stop in this week, and we’ll help you pick the right products (and timing) for your lawn.
  • Not sure what you need? Bring a photo of your lawn, and we’ll point you to the best next step.

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